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The Guide To Buying A Suit

July 24, 2018

Man in custom suit sitting on bench.

Purchasing A Suit: Fit, Fabric & Functionality

If you have heard of those terms before, great. They are related to the skill of purchasing suits...and purchasing anything else in men's clothing. Why? Because everything you put in your wardrobe must fit well, feel good, look amazing, and also fit the right occasions if you would like to be fashion-forward.

Purchasing A Suit: Variable #1 -- Fit

The very first order of business is as with other clothes items -- is to nail the fit. Never proceed with a suit that does not fit you. The matter is you need to think about more than just the conventional S, M, L or XL sizes which are predetermined in shops. There are numerous elements of the fit.

Bear in mind that a suit is by definition; a blend of (1) a coat and (2) a set of pants made of the same cloth. If you find a type where the two pieces are similar but not isn't a suit.

For this reason, you will want to look closely at the following aspects of the fit for the suit coat and pants...

Jacket: Shoulder Fit

The coat should fall in line perfectly with your shoulders within an inch of their shoulder points. There should not be any obvious bumps on the shoulder region because that suggests that the coat just does not match your shoulders nicely.

Jacket: Torso Fit

As essential as the shoulder match is your match around your chest. The key to understanding whether the coat is too loose or tight would be to switch up and check for:

The "X" which signifies that the waist sticks very closely to your own body = overly tight.

Enough space to squeeze into a complete fist in the coat = overly loose.

When you have checked for those, the next step is to go up or down in size so the suit fits your proportions and some tiny details (for instance, chest pocket placement) are accounted for.

Jacket: Total Length

Here you have to stand right and drop both arms to your sides. From the point at which the shoulder seam meets the neck, measure down to the bottom of the front of the jacket and check to see if it stops right at your thumb knuckle.

Then be sure it covers the bottom of their butt (though you are free to correct this into an inch shorter or longer depending upon your height). Guys that are under 5 feet 8 inches need to be cautious to not put on a super long coat that extends past the buttocks or it will make them appear shorter.

The sleeves specifically -- you need them to extend to your wristbones. Take notice that this detail isn't set in stone and you'll be able to add/subtract an inch and a half to the sleeves in case your coat is off-the-rack and needs to be tailored. But this will not be an alternative for any coat with functioning buttons (particularly from a high-quality custom suit with working surgeon cuffs). It is not designed to be readjusted.

Jacket: Collar Fit

The collar needs to be sitting off of your neck not and placing too much pressure on your neck. Why? The simple fact that the coat is already your next layer on the very top after your shirt collar. So there needs to be an allowance. 

Trousers: The Waist Fit

If it comes to some pair of pants...the major issue is your waist. So don't underestimate the significance of measuring your waist accurately.

Most pants can really be taken in or let out with an inch and a half. A bigger waist may cause extra stuff around the butt area -- which makes it look as if you are wearing a diaper underneath -- while a wider waist may result in ripping your pants next time you are hurrying to the workplace.

Trousers: The Break

The fantastic thing is it is really an issue of personal taste whether you would like to wear pants without a break, a quarter-break, half-break or complete break. All that matters is that you create a conscious decision based on what works for you (like if you are on a job interview for a position in the creative space and your half-break pants expose just a tiny sock to display your pizazz).

Purchasing A Suit: Variable #2 -- Functionality

You are purchasing a suit for the first time. Not only does it need to fit you also must represent you at the best possible light before you start talking. 

Is it for a wedding? Are you going to be sporting it into a career fair? Or a dinner with your uncle's friend who works for a business that you wish to intern in? No matter what the occasion is...your purpose is to get a suit that satisfies it. A suit that shows your seriousness, trustworthiness, and willingness to work.

Suit Color & Pattern

This is of course totally up to you. We offer a wide range of colors and fabrics and will only offer more in the future. Some would advise sticking with conservative colors if this is one of your first few suits. Something like a charcoal grey or a navy will allow you to mix and match it with a wider variety of accessories. 

But our Regal line is anything but conservative so take your pick at what you are feeling. Style is changing, fashion is changing, and so are you. So we don't believe in the whole conservative spill. We go with how we feel. Because rules are meant to be broken.

Suit Pockets

A normal suit coat has three pockets: a breast pocket on the top left-hand side and two flap pockets in the base on both sides of front. That is it. There are other viable options as well such as:

A ticket pocket or additional pocket in front (left- or right-hand )

Patch pockets (stitched on top of the coat; mostly found on sports coats but are being used more and more on suit jackets)

Suit Buttons

You have got to put some consideration to a selection between the 3-button suit coat and 2-button suit coat. Here is how they differ from each other:

 The 3-button coat is excellent if you are in shape and you need something much more formal. You can button the top two buttons -- the very first one is optional while the middle is a must; the bottom button shouldn't be buttoned.

The 2-button coat is better if you've got a typical build because the "V" formation extends down lower compared to 3-button coat (which may fit your proportions more closely) 

Suit Lapel

Begin with the notch lapel as it is the traditional kind (and the very common) which will just get the job done for a first match. The issue with a different design like the peak lapel is it seems overly formal. However, it looks extremely good on men with broad shoulders as it accentuates the width of the chest and shoulders. Shawl lapels are usually reserved for tuxedos but look really good in a slim design.

Back Of The Suit Jacket

Your most important choices for the rear of the coat are no vent, the single vent, as well as the double vent. I'd suggest the double vent every moment. Why? Since they wind up providing you with the most flattering shape, particularly as you are walking. The single vent will expose your butt when your hand is in your pocket (even though it's more generally used and more economical to make) whereas coats with no vents are mainly the slim-fit type manufactured in Italy.

Purchasing Your First Suit: Variable #3 -- Fabric

Is fabric important? Concerning hierarchy, it falls under function and fit. But that does not mean it is useless understanding the distinct kinds of suit fabric.

A fantastic suit should not only have all of the ideal attributes and match your body form. It ought to look and feel as though it is made from a high quality cloth and stitching.

You do not necessarily need it pricey...but moderately priced...rather than a"cheapskate" or second-rate material. That is going to allow you to get people's respect straight away.

Here are a few of the materials to select from:

Wool: This includes the vast majority of materials for suits. It's easy to twist and weave wool to several different fabric types -- ranging from hefty and wiry tweeds to mild along with fine-napped tropical suits.

Cotton: it makes for a superb suit if the cloth is carefully chosen. Therefore, in the event that you've got a limited budget, look at obtaining a high-quality cotton suit rather than an average-quality wool match to the exact same cost -- because the cotton suit is going to have more value for the money.

Silk: this substance seems lighter and more comfy than the usual water-absorbing cotton or thicker wool. It is popular among businessmen in Asia and the Middle East (areas where silk is quite abundant).

Linen: it is more expensive but has the power to be stitched loosely to get a super mild, breezy cloth. The drawback is that it will blow rather than draping near the body.

Artificial Fibers/Synthetics

Purchasing Your First Suit: Variable #4 -- Selecting A Great Tailor

You're able to read and reread everything about the match, cloth, and work of matches...but that is actually just 70 percent of the job. You will want to trust in a fantastic tailor (us) for creating your suit.

How significant is a tailor? Professional and reputed tailors can make a suit about 2 inches to coincide with your torso. They will not have a problem adjusting the collar -- or hemming the pants based on the break you want. Any dimensions you have that are on off-the-rack suits, they could handle.

So be certain that you speak well with your tailor the day that you meet them. The most experienced tailors are not people you simply appear and ask to create something. They want advice and details. Two-way communication is the trick to getting the process right -- to optimizing your initial suit and other suits later on.

Purchasing Your First Suit: Variable #5 -- Choice Of Dress Shirt

Obviously, sporting your very first suit requires more than just the coat and pants. Everything else you are wearing on this day counts. The dress shirt then becomes a matter of importance.

Read the standards for a fantastic dress shirt next: 

Dress Shirt: Color & Pattern

You will want to play it safe for the first outfit. Get the color be white or mild blue to your initial shirts. Why? Because both of these are usually accepted as quite formal shirt colors. They may also be paired with a broad assortment of ties and other accessories.

Think that is too dull? Don't hesitate to mix it up when it has to do with the routines of the light blue tops. A herringbone plus a set of replicating little white dots are a few choices. Neither of these kinds would steal much focus from the true suit you are wearing.

Dress Shirt: Collar

Whether you select a spread collar or pointed collar, the true job is assessing it fits you nicely. This is 1 detail that does not need to be 100% right because your coat will cover this up. However, the more spread-out that the collar will be...the more it goes with a massive necktie knot. There should likewise be no buttons on the collar points (which typically signify that the top is informal).

Dress Shirt: Cuffs

Your very best option is to choose barrel cuffs -- the sort which has a single button and folds over on itself for the apparel shirt. 

Dress Shirt: Pockets

There is no particular rule about pockets. Go with what you like here. 

Purchasing Your First Suit: Variable #6 -- Choice Of Necktie

When compared with the rest of the garments products, you will have a great deal of liberty picking your necktie. There is so much variety available. Ties with stripes are more casual however they could pass for interview apparel. If you want to go bold with paisley or bold colors, then we support it. A good contrasting color will look awesome with your suit of choice. 

We'll roll out accessories soon and have neckties for you men to choose from that will accentuate your suit perfectly. 

Purchasing Your First Suit: Variable #7 -- Choice Of Pocket Square

Your very best choice to get a pocket square is something easy and subtle...but still tasteful. You may try changing the color later on so that it can pop more or fit your necktie.

Purchasing Your First Suit: Variable #8 -- Dress Shoes & Socks

Every suit requires the ideal dress socks and shoes to associate with. You do not just wear these to appear wear these to set everything off. Women love a man in nice shoes as well.

If your socks and shoes do not possess exactly the exact same degree of fashion as your suit...they may be an eyesore.

So limit your options into black, dark brown, and oxblood apparel shoes that are closed-laced (in which the front part of the shoe is fixed in addition to the rear part). There is essentially no brouging (stitching) across the cover toe. That is the formulation of traditional leather footwear.

Socks are also important. Dark, dark green or maroon socks work just fine. Colorful socks are becoming more and more accepted as sock brands are becoming more prevalent.

In Closing

There you have it. All that information should suffice for almost any first-timer or second timer buying a suit. Yes, the whole thing is kind of a game. And you either lose or win.


Who is your competition? Anyone in the actual world with some ability to affect your professional life (or perhaps your own personal life). Whether it is a job interview, a company-wide occasion or even a blind date at a fancy restaurant...first impressions are everything. Your suit can benefit people's preferences or push them off in a period of seconds. Therefore the only choice is to win.